After two full and exhausting days, day three was at a slower, part by plan, part by weather. I had made a reservation to see the inside of Haebaru Field Hospital Cave No. 20, which was cleaned up, reinforced, and opened to the public in June 2007. It was designated the first war-related Important Cultural Property in Japan in 1990, even before the Japanese government made that possible on 1995. I had seen the entrance of the cave (tunnel, really) years ago when it was locked ruins in the side of a hill. Now there’s a reception building (and a ¥300 charge), helmets, flashlights, and volunteer guides (about 50 total).
I was late joining the group because I didn’t know where we were supposed to meet. I apologized and the others were cool about it. One guy took photos of me with my little camera without me asking. This was inside the cave, with our guide Mr. Chinen giving explanations on the right.
Once out the other side, Mr. Chinen continued about the plight of the wounded and the nurses (many from the Himeyuri Corps, but not exclusively). He talked a lot and very quickly — hard to keep up with him.
It was very much worth the trip — both the opportunity to see part of the tunnel complex and to see the just-opened new Haebaru Bunka Sentaa (Culture Center).
It’s much bigger and brighter than the old building and was funded primarily by the town. All of the exhibits were put together by the employees at the Center — no pros were hired. Taira Tsugiko, whom I met nine years ago — is one of the curators and she gave me a nice personal tour of the “Okinawan Daily Life” section of the exhibit. The main part of the Center is, of course, about Haebaru in war and postwar times, but Taira-san said that their idea is to show not just the war and not just the good things about the town, as this serves as their city museum. There is a real commitment on the part of the town and the people who work and volunteer at the Center. The Director said they basically run at a lost but even so, it’s important to continue their mission. I agree. I liked their attitude. It’s a good place.
Thanks for the link to your blog Gerald. I’ll definitely contact Taira-san before I go to Haebaru later this year. Keep up the good work! Mark